Casing calculator
Style guide

Door casing styles, compared in section

A casing style is mostly two things: the profile, which is the shape of the molding in section, and how the corners at the head are joined. Here are the six you will meet most, what makes each one, and the house each one suits.

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Updated October 12, 2026Research based, not hands-on testing

FIVE CASING PROFILESDrawn to the same scaleCOLONIAL11/16 x 2-1/4 inRANCH5/8 x 2-1/4 inCRAFTSMAN FLAT3/4 x 3-1/2 inFARMHOUSE FLAT3/4 x 3-1/2 inMODERN SQUARE1/2 x 2-1/2 in
Fig. 1 Five common casing profiles drawn to one scale. The section shows the shape you see when you look at the cut end.

Short answer

The common door casing styles are colonial (a cove-and-bead profile), ranch (a plain taper), craftsman (wide flat boards with a built-up head), farmhouse (plain flat boards, often on plinth blocks), modern (slim and square, or no casing at all) and Victorian (fluted casing with corner rosettes). Typical widths run 2-1/4 to 3-1/2 in, and craftsman trim is often 4 in or wider.

Two things make a style

The profile is the shape you would see if you cut through the molding. Colonial casing curves and steps; flat stock is just a board. The head joint is how the top piece meets the legs: a 45 degree miter, a straight butt joint under a thicker head, or a square corner block. This Old House puts typical door trim at 2-1/4 to 3-1/2 in wide, with craftsman trim often 4 in or wider.

  1. 01Traditional

    Colonial casing

    Best for: traditional and colonial houses, and anywhere you want detail without fuss

    Typical size
    11/16 x 2-1/4 in
    Joint
    Mitered
    Profile
    Cove and bead
    • The cove-and-bead shape is the classic colonial profile (This Old House)
    • Sold primed, in MDF, finger-joint pine and hardwoods
    • Wider versions around 3-1/4 in suit taller ceilings
  2. 02Simple

    Ranch (clamshell) casing

    Best for: ranch and mid-century houses, rentals, and quick repairs

    Typical size
    5/8 x 2-1/4 in
    Joint
    Mitered
    Profile
    Tapered, rounded edge
    • A plain taper from a thin inner edge to a rounded outer edge
    • No detail to hide a gap, so miters need to close well
    • Often the lowest-cost stock casing
  3. 03Built up

    Craftsman casing

    Best for: craftsman, bungalow and arts and crafts houses

    Typical size
    3/4 x 3-1/2 in legs
    Joint
    Butted head
    Head
    Frieze plus cap
    • Flat legs, a taller head board and a projecting cap
    • Easy to make from flat primed boards
    • Kits are sold with the head pieces ready to assemble
  4. 04Plain

    Farmhouse casing

    Best for: farmhouse, cottage and rustic rooms

    Typical size
    3/4 x 3-1/2 in
    Joint
    Butted
    Extras
    Plinth blocks
    • Straight, plain boards, sometimes showing wood grain and knots (This Old House)
    • Plinth blocks at the floor add weight
    • The simplest style to cut: square ends only
  5. 05Minimal

    Modern casing

    Best for: modern and contemporary rooms

    Typical size
    1/2 x 2-1/2 in
    Joint
    Mitered
    Edges
    Square
    • Flat stock with crisp square edges, or a thin beveled flat
    • The most minimal option is no casing at all, which takes drywall detailing
    • Square edges show every gap, so fit matters
Fig. 2 Victorian style: fluted casing, corner rosettes at the head and plinth blocks at the floor.

Victorian: fluted casing with rosettes

Victorian casing is ornate and symmetrical, often fluted with narrow ribs, with an elaborate head (This Old House). The corners usually get rosettes: square blocks with a carved center that replace the miter. Plinth blocks finish the bottom. See rosettes and plinth blocks.

See rosette and plinth kits

Mitered, butted or blocked

Head jointLooksCuttingSuits
MiteredContinuous frame, sleekTwo 45 degree cuts per corner that must close tightColonial, ranch, modern; lower ceilings
ButtedHeavier head, architecturalSquare cuts; the head can be wider and thickerCraftsman, farmhouse; higher ceilings
Corner blocksDecorative, periodSquare cuts only; blocks hide the jointVictorian, farmhouse

This Old House notes mitered casing suits modern settings and lower ceilings but is harder to DIY, while butted trim is easier and allows a wider or more detailed head. If a miter saw is unfamiliar, a butted head or corner blocks remove the hardest cut. The install guide covers both.

How to choose

Not sure? The style picker turns these rules into a suggestion in five taps.

Questions people ask

What is the most popular door casing style?

Colonial and ranch profiles are the stock casing at most home centers, usually about 2-1/4 inches wide. Flat craftsman-style casing has become a common choice for painted trim because it is simple to make from flat boards.

What is the difference between mitered and butted casing?

Mitered casing joins at the head corners with two 45 degree cuts, which suits modern rooms and lower ceilings. Butted casing runs the head straight across the tops of the legs, which allows a wider, thicker head and is easier to cut (This Old House).

Should door casing match window casing?

Generally yes. Designers suggest keeping trim consistent through a house and matching door and window casing, with the front entry as the usual place to go wider or more detailed.

How wide should door casing be?

Typical door trim is 2-1/4 to 3-1/2 inches wide, and craftsman trim is often 4 inches or wider. Wider casing suits taller ceilings and larger rooms.

Sources

  1. This Old House, Door casing styles

Last reviewed October 12, 2026. Profiles, sizes and listings change; check the product details before you buy, and follow the maker’s instructions.