Short answer
Craftsman door trim uses flat legs about 3-1/2 in wide (a 1x4) and a butted head: a taller frieze board, often a 1x6, topped with a thin fillet and a cap that overhangs the legs. Every cut is square, which makes it friendly for DIY. Buy it as a kit or make it from primed 1x stock.
Anatomy of craftsman trim
| Piece | Common stock | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Legs | 1x4 (3/4 x 3-1/2 in) | Flat, square edges or lightly eased. Wider on tall ceilings. |
| Frieze (head board) | 1x6 (3/4 x 5-1/2 in) | Sits on top of the legs, flush with their outer edges. |
| Fillet or bead | small strip | Optional shadow line between frieze and cap. |
| Cap | 5/4 or 1x2 | Projects past the frieze and the legs on both sides. |
Proportions vary from house to house; these are common starting points. This Old House describes craftsman trim as chunky with clean lines, typically 4 in wide or more (This Old House). A JLC carpenter builds the head as a stack and lets the top pieces cantilever 3/8 in past the frieze on each side (JLC).
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01Easiest
Craftsman door trim kit
Best for: one or two doors, or anyone without a table saw
- Legs
- Flat, precut
- Head
- Frieze and cap pieces
- Finish
- Usually primed
- Pieces arrive cut to standard door sizes
- Check the leg length against your door height
- Check that the kit covers one side or both
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02Best value
DIY from primed 1x boards
Best for: a whole house of doors
- Legs
- 1x4 primed
- Head
- 1x6 plus cap
- Tools
- Miter saw, nailer
- Primed finger-joint pine or MDF boards are the usual paint-grade stock
- Pick straight boards; flat stock shows a bow
- Assemble the head on the bench, then hang it
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03Head only
Ready-made craftsman header
Best for: upgrading existing flat casing
- Fits
- Over existing legs
- Parts
- Frieze and cap
- Check
- Width of your opening
- Adds the craftsman head without replacing the legs
- Match the leg thickness so the head sits flush
- Measure across the outside edges of the casing
Building the head
Hang the legs first
Set each leg 3/16 in back from the jamb edge, square cut at the top, level with the head jamb plus the reveal. Tack them with a couple of brads.
Cut the frieze
Measure across the outside edges of the two legs. Cut the frieze to that length so it lines up flush with the outer edges.
Add the fillet and cap
Cut the fillet and the cap longer than the frieze so each overhangs evenly, for example 3/8 in a side. Glue and nail them to the frieze on the bench.
Hang the head as one piece
Set the assembled head on the legs, check it is level and centered, then nail it into the header framing and the head jamb.
Fill, caulk and paint
Fill nail holes, caulk the joint to the wall, and paint. Priming and painting the head before you hang it saves work overhead.
What you need
More on the joint styles in door casing styles, and on dressing a head up further in door header trim. Work out how many boards to buy with the casing calculator (choose a butted head).
Questions people ask
What size boards are used for craftsman door trim?
A common combination is 1x4 legs and a 1x6 head board, topped with a thinner cap. Actual sizes are 3/4 by 3-1/2 and 3/4 by 5-1/2 inches. Wider legs of about 4-1/4 to 4-1/2 inches suit taller ceilings.
How far should the craftsman head overhang the casing?
There is no single rule. One carpenter writing in JLC usually cantilevers the head pieces 3/8 inch past the frieze on each side. Pick an overhang that looks right with your cap and keep it the same on every door.
Is craftsman trim hard to install?
It is one of the easier styles. The legs and head are square cut, so there are no miters to close. The head can be glued and nailed together on the bench, then put up as one piece.
Sources
Last reviewed October 12, 2026. Profiles, sizes and listings change; check the product details before you buy, and follow the maker’s instructions.